國語版本

Whilst here in Hong Kong anticipating the lines of Chinese visitors for tomorrow’s opening of Vinexpo Asia, I wonder who would have thought ten years ago that this Asian market would be the driving force behind the fine wine business as it is today? It’s an explosive phenomenon best illustrated by the rise in value of Lafite 1982. Three years go The Antique Wine Company was supplying this wine at £10,000 per case. We are now supplying the same wine for £40,000 per case and every case of Lafite, not only the 82 but even the shadow vintages of its second wine, goes to China and we still can't find enough. This is good news if you're a European client with an odd case or two in the cellar that you might wish to sell!

Two years ago, whilst at The Antique Wine Company's “Three Centuries of Lafite” event (co- hosted by Chateau Lafite and The Antique Wine Company) at Grand Hotel du Cap Ferrat in the South of France, I asked Lafite's winemaker Charles Chevallier, over a glass of their 1959 vintage, "what do you attribute the apparent popularity of Lafite in China to?” He answered, two reasons, the first being that "Lafite makes the best wine in Bordeaux" (an answer which the world’s most esteemed  winemaker is almost duty bound to give with hand on heart and one which is perhaps true), but the second reason was probably equally important; "Lafite is a name that is pronounceable in Mandarin, and there's also something special about the word "la feet" in the world's biggest, fastest growing economic force.

During this Vinexpo show, I'll be taking a massage of La Feet every day!

© 2010 Stephen Williams

 Pic; The Great Antique Lafite Collection 1787-2000 sold by The Antique Wine Company in 2007

 

En Primeur Round-up

Last night I was privileged to attend the most wonderful party held in the Gallery of Bordeaux’s Grand Opera, hosted by Pierre Lurton, the boss of Chateau d’Yquem. The only wine being poured was Chateau d’Yquem (and the dry Ygrec), and every detail was organised to perfection, from the elegant hostesses in their black silk haut couture business suits highlighted with a discreet sash of golden yquem coloured Thai silk, the colour coordination went on to include the golden tulips and stunning spring flowers, the gold leaf columns of this magnificent room matching the brilliant hue of the 1989 Yquem to perfection.

So it is with the sweet aftertaste of this wine that I conclude the week’s blog with a round-up of impressions, thoughts and conclusions on the vintage, the market and the wines.

En Primeur presence

As ever, it is absolutely vital for me and my buyers to have come to Bordeaux this week. Firstly, we need to get a first-hand feel and in-depth understanding of the quality of the vintage and which chateaux’s wines have performed well this year.

That’s because there’s no substitute for tasting in situ. I and my team need to know which are the winners and losers in 2009 so that when we are talking to our clients around the world we can give them our honest assessments about the style of any particular chateau as well as how it will age and develop. And of course, we can advise whether it is a good buy when the prices are released over the next few weeks.

State of the market

Another reason to be here is to gauge the state of the market. Only by talking to the top players like Pierre Lurton at Cheval Blanc, Paul Pontallier at Margaux and Herve Berland at Mouton can you get an inside track on their perceptions of how the campaign will unfold – how much wine will be released in each individual tranche and at what price. Naturally, they aren’t giving too much away and are keeping their cards close to their chests, but I was able to get an insight into the way they are thinking thanks to some useful private conversations.

Of course, their pricing will also depend on what the market is telling them. And this year, it has been fascinating to see who has come to Bordeaux. Whilst there has been an Asian presence at many of the tastings I have been to, it certainly didn’t strike me that mainland Chinese buyers are out here in force. Nor have I heard too many American accents over the last three or four days. Will China and the States be up for the 2009s. I doubt whether the Chinese are yet ready to grasp the principle of buying something that you can’t have until two years after you’ve paid for it. And, I am sure that that and the fragile economic conditions will certainly influence the way the chateaux will price their wines. My view is that prices will be high, but will come out at less than 2005 release prices, but the amount of wine sold by the chateaux en-primeur will be a smaller proportion of their production.

And, it is always incredibly useful to talk to old friends, colleagues and competitors about their perceptions on the vintage and the market. The fine wine world largely revolves around Bordeaux and this is a multi-million pound industry with a lot to play for. All the major players come to Bordeaux for this annual event. So if you are serious about fine wine, you have to be here.

However, whilst it is a serious and intensive three days – it’s also terrific fun. There’s always a buzz about the en primeur tastings which I thrive on and compensate for the paucity of sleep.

And it’s also a chance to catch up with old friends and drink some great wine. For instance, last night following the “Yquem aperitif party” 30 of us dined together at Chateau de Sours with host Martin Krajewski pulling out yet more stunning wines from his cellar including double magnums of 66 Mouton and 82 La Conseillante plus vintages of 86 Latour, 76 Mouton and the grand finale, 1990 Leoville Las Cases. It was quite a night!

Thoughts on the 2009 vintage

Two things stick in my mind from my visits to Bordeaux in 2009. One was the hail in May in St Emilion which wreaked such massive havoc in the space of a few short minutes. For instance at Chateau Balestard La Tonnelle, the crop was decimated in the blink of an eye thanks to corridor of hail the size of golf balls. I could only feel the utmost sympathy for the owner, Mr Cap de Meurlin.

Some vines were able to re-bud. But the hail has undoubtedly reduced the volume of the Merlot crop. But perhaps most importantly, it has made it much more difficult for right bank winemakers to make a good selection in 2009.

Unfortunately, the Merlots have had a tough time this year regarding the ripening process. The problem as I mentioned my earlier blogs was that the grapes ripened early in terms of sugar levels, but that winemakers then had to wait for phenolic ripeness - which took another two to three weeks as sugar levels continue to climb. They had the almost impossible choice of picking late and making wines with unusually high alcohol or picking early and making wines with green and harsh tannins. So, many have been caught between a rock and a hard place, I am afraid that a number of Merlot based wines on the Right Bank are not entirely successful.

In contrast, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc have done particularly well this year. Rain at the right time also assisted the Cabernets leading me to think that many of the top wines are to be found on the left bank. Tellingly, many of the best wines in Margaux, Pauillac and St Julien have increased the quantity of Cabernet and cut the percentage of merlot in their 2009 blends.

As a result, I have been surprised by the 2009s. I came here having heard all the advance hype about the 2009s both from the press and winemakers who told me how good it was. Consequently, I came expecting a relatively homogenous profile of quality. Whilst there are a high proportion of magnificent wines, I don’t see the quality as being homogenous. Some of the wines simply have too much alcohol or the right level of alcohol with green unripe tannins.

It’s difficult to know how a winemaker resolves this problem, which may be a symptom of global warming. Having asked numerous winemakers about how they controlled the ripeness and alcohol, in almost every case they told me there is nothing they can do – except by selection from micro-terroir.

In other words, it is all down to terroir and climatic conditions. This was a dry vintage throughout the year with warm (but not hot) days and cold nights. Moreover, the extended growth cycle of 2009 meant that end of the harvest wasn’t completed until the end of October. Consequently, particular micro climates of individual terroirs were absolutely key. For instance, at Las-Cases and Latour, the vineyards back onto the Gironde river and therefore benefit from higher night time temperatures. This meant that they were able to harvest sooner rather than later and bring in ripe grapes with good acidity levels and perfect phenolics. And you can clearly taste it in the wines.

In conclusion then, which are my favourite wines? The Firsts and Super Seconds, in particular, have produced exceptional wines in 2009 and I think some are as good as the legends of the past including 1982, 1990, 2000 and 2005. But there are also some great value wines which are well worth seeking out.

Here is a list of my top in terms of sheer quality and my top ‘value’ wines, both of which will provide enormous pleasure over the coming years.

Top quality 2009s
La Mission Haut Brion, Lafite, Latour, Margaux, Mouton, Las-Cases, Cheval Blanc, Palmer.

Top value 2009s
Clos de Marquis, Pavillon Rouge de Chateau Margaux, Potensac, Forts de Latour, Petit Village, Pichon Lalande, and a petit chateau in St Emilion Clos de la Madelaine.

La vie en rose or Pavie en rose….

As I intimated in my previous blog, Pavie is probably the most controversial wine in the whole of Bordeaux right now. It’s the ‘marmite’ label, which people love or hate. As some of you will remember, back in 2003, Jancis Robinson loathed it and Parker loved it.

Why such a furore? Well, the simple answer is whether Pavie and the rest of Perse’s Right Bank wines accurately represent their terroir or are simply too ‘modern’ and extracted for their own good. So it was fascinating to see how winemaker Henrique da Costa had coped with the vintage. Would the merlots be over-ripe and over-alcoholic with a wall of tannin?

Clos les Lunelles had a lovely lifted aroma and bouquet with strawberries and raspberries. On the palate though, more black fruit emerged – as did a some hefty tannins. I gave it 15.

Monbousquet came equipped with good fruit and notes of coffee and liquorice. But what I didn’t like were the brutal tannins. To me, they were over-extracted, tough and austere – even a little vegetal. Again, another 15 points.

Much better was Pavie Decessse. Perhaps it was the older vines and the fact that it is situated on the limestone plateau. Certainly, this was much more successful. The fruit was full, sweet and attractively forward – full of damsons and mulberries with a touch of mocha too. Moreover, it was fresher and softer – voluptuous rather than tough and tannic. The alcohol is big at 14.5% but it is not so noticeable and is hidden by the fruit and ripe tannins. I gave it 18. Only, 500 cases were made, I wonder if, after the huge crowd of tasters in Bordeaux this week, there will be any to sell? I think this will go like hot cakes this year.

And what about Pavie? My feeling is that the 2009 will once again radically divide opinion. As for my own opinion, it is certainly impressive in its way. The colour is completely opaque and the nose is equally intense. There’s also no lack of black fruit and cigar box. But I’m afraid that when you put the wine in your mouth you meet a wall of tannins. In fact, make that a mountain of tannin. Will it come round? I am sure it will, but not for another 15 years at least.

For instance, winemaker Henrique da Costa told me that he is just broaching the 2000 now – but it needs decanting for a couple of hours at least.

Finally, we also tasted the Monbousquet Blanc 2009 which is a blend of two thirds sauvignon blanc and on third sauvignon gris – a variety which very few people are familiar with, even in Bordeaux Henrique told me.

Personally, I was very excited by this wine which really impressed me. On the nose, it was full of citrus and lemon notes. And on the palate, it was rich and fat, but with streak of clean refreshing acidity running through it. The fruit was melon, pineapple and some savoury oatmeal, which rounded it off nicely. Very long too. I gave it 17 points.

If you haven’t tried this wine, it’s certainly unusual and distinctive as well as rare. In St Emilion, the only other white wine producer of note is Bernard Magrez at Fombrauge, where the wine also has to be labelled as Bordeaux Bordeaux Blanc because the appellation laws do not permit white St Emilion.

But we may see more white St Emilion Gerard Perse is even thinking of planting some white grapes in the hallowed soils of Pavie. ‘It makes sense,’ says Henrique. ‘You can create great white wines on limestone soil – after all, look at burgundy!’

Well, that’s it for now. My teeth are once again completely stained and my dentist would probably have a fit. But the show must go on.

Day 2 - Pontet Canet, Montrose and Leoville-las-Cases

Perhaps, not surprisingly, Pontet Canet can’t reach the heights of the Lafite we tasted just before lunch yesterday. Nonetheless, there’s no question that this is a rising star in Bordeaux. Moreover, Alfred Tesseron and his team have produced another good wine in 2009 but which perhaps lacked a bit of depth and was just a touch austere on the finish. 15 points.

Of course, Pontet-Canet is the only classed growth to have been certified as biodynamic and whilst there isn’t time to go into that here, I will delve into it for sure on a podcast at some future point.

And like Latour, they are using horsepower to work the soil rather than tractors, said their chef de cave Jeanne-Michel Comme who I talked to at length about the benefits of this natural approach to vine growing.

‘We have three horses. But I think we will have more. They are only a brick in the wall we want to build. Because to improve the wines, we have to take care of the soil. When we started to farm biodynamically, we noticed that the soils were in bad shape because of damaging pesticides and heavy tractors which compacted it and prevented oxygen from getting to the natural microbes in the soil. So we have to get the soil in the right condition for the microbes to return. Then the soil will be in better health which we hope and expect that will improve condition of the and ultimately the fruit and the wine. But this will take years. It is a long process.’

Our next stop was Montrose in St Estephe. It too has ambitions under its relatively new owner Martin Bougyes and Technical Director Nicholas Glumineau – not least because of the number of building projects on the go at this second growth, including plans to generate all their own electricity using solar panels.

However, they’re not just expanding their capacity in the cellar,they have recently bought 22ha of vineyards from Phelan-Segur. According to Glumineau what is so exciting about this is that is a very good terroir. ‘It is the same kind of soil at the top of the hill abutting the estate and used to be owned by Montrose a long time ago. So we are very happy to get it. The vines are not too old or too young vines and I think it was the best part of Phelan Segur.’

Glumineau showed us four wines including the first and second wines of Tronquoy Lalande. Both had a lot more Merlot because of the terroir – it has more clay and less gravel. But I preferred the Montrose wines – particularly the Grand Vin.

72% of production has gone into the wine with Cabernet at 65% and 29% being Merlot. To me this is very pure, polished and fairly monumental but it’s also surprisingly approachable now. I am sure it will be a vin de garde because of its sheer concentration and fresh acidity. The tannins are also powerful but ripe and the fruit is terrific. So the balance is good and there’s no hint of heaviness. 18 points.

Last but by no means least is Las-Cases in St Julien, which remains one of the leading performers of all the classified growths. More often than not, it’s First Growth quality and the rumours that are ricocheting around Bordeaux are that M Delon has produced something special in 2009.

Apparently, 300 visitors showed up on Monday and Tuesday was just as busy, according to chef de Cave Bruno Rolland whose family have been at Las-Cases for the last three generations.

The Nenin was good from Pomerol but I preferred the Potensac from the left bank, which I thought was really impressive this year and will be a great value wine for drinkers. Also impressive was the debut vintage of Le Petit Lion, Las-Cases’ brand new second wine. It had excellent jammy fruit with a hint of tobacco. Also on top form was Clos du Marquis which was very well made and I gave it 18. To me it was a velvet glove in an iron fist.

But the Las-cases simply blows you away. It is the complete package – sweet, cedary, very ripe, creamy tannins. And there’s an awesome black fruit sweetness with a savoury character. The colour is opaque and there’s a fat texture full of glycerine without being over extracted. And it has wonderful length and balance. To me this is vinous perfection again and I have no hesitation in giving it a perfect 20.

On a final note, what I also like about the Las-Cases is the alcohol level at just 13.4%. My view so far is that the very best wines of 2009 are at or around this level and the common thread which links them is Cabernet Sauvignon. Similarly, the least successful wines that I have tasted with higher alcohol of over 14% are from the Right bank with higher percentages of Merlot.

So the conclusion I am reaching is that this is shaping up to be more of a left bank vintage – and here’s why. Essentially, the left bank chateaux could pick the ripe cabernet at the right time when it was ripe and not too alcoholic. But on the Right bank, many chateaux have had to wait for their Merlot grapes to achieve full phenolic ripeness. And, of course, that has meant a big build up of sugar and has resulted in some wines being overextracted or just too alcoholic for their own good.

However, today I’ll get a much clearer picture of the Right bank as my itinerary today includes the likes of Cheval Blanc and Petrus. So tune in later for the latest news on this exciting vintage.

Day 2 part 2

The Rothschild connection.

Mouton

Our first lunchtime appointment was at Mouton, where the cellars are being modernised. Because of this and the rain we were bizarrely transported by electric golf buggies from the car park to the tasting room. It must have been all of 200 yards and at one point I wondered whether we were on our way to EuroDisney?

However, this is no Mickey Mouse operation. Waiting for us were Mouton’s MD Herve Berland and winemaker Philippe Dhalluin, both of whom were looking confident and relaxed. And so they might. Le Petit Mouton was fresh and aromatic, with good acidity, classic dark fruit and medium body. Armailhac was in the same mould, but had more lifted aromas, sweet creamy fruit and superb length with a touch of spice. Clerc Milon was also elegant, fresh, firm and with lovely fruit as well as more minerality. The finish was long and complex.

And what about the star of the show? For me, Mouton was terrific. Blackcurrant fruit, layered texture, cashmere tannins and superb delineation, poise and polish. Very classical too in terms of structure with just 13.1% alcohol. I gave it 18+. For me it wasn’t quite as good as Margaux but still very, very good.

As I was leaving, I took the opportunity of asking Herve Berland what he thought about the market for the forthcoming campaign. His comments were fascinating and insightful. His first point was that the Asian markets would be very important in this campaign and in particular he was confident that mainland China would definitely be in the market, a first for the mainland Chinese. The second point he made was that the chateaux do need to take note of the fragile economic climate. In fact he was almost at pains to emphasise that this will be factored into the price. To me, this was interesting because he was one of the few Bordelais who was willing to talk about the all important issue of price. Let’s hope he is right on the money.

Assuming he is, how will the campaign develop? This year the problem may be more to do with getting hold of the top wines rather than how much they will cost. Not least, because the chateaux will drip feed a miniscule amount of wine on the first tranche – in order to test the market and also to be seen to be fair and reasonable.

If I was in their shoes I would be tempted to sell the minimum and wait to see what develops. So I expect a long drawn out campaign with multiple tranches. I also think that the most prosperous chateaux may well release less wine this year simply because it will be in their interests to hold it back and sell it subsequently at a higher price. Either way, it will be an interesting few months as the wines emerge from April onwards.

Finding Lafite

Then it was off to Lafite, or rather Duhart Milon in Pauillac where Lafite’s winemaker Charles Chevallier was showcasing his perennially impressive wines. One minor problem was that nobody seemed to know precisely where Duhart was situated in the village. Fortunately, we found it quite quickly – but I imagine that there are some who are still looking for it.

Nonetheless, the tasting room was full with about 40 or so tasters as you would expect. But what I did notice was that there wasn’t a single Chinese buyer present, something which took me by surprise given the level of demand coming out of Asia for anything with brand Lafite on it. So the question remains: will the Chinese buy en primeur for the first time? We’ll have to wait and see. However, even if the Chinese don’t buy, there will be a host of speculative investors who will happily fill the link into the Chinese market. You can bet your house on that.

And let’s not forget the wines! Carruades was again almost indecently delicious and almost invited you to drink it rather than spit it out. The purity of cassis fruit was utterly beguiling and the tannins were barely noticeable. It easily merited 18 out of 20. It will sell like hot cakes, particularly if they price it keenly which seems to be the rule rather than the exception for Carruades.

If Carruades was reassuringly good, Duhart was a revelation. This property is on the up and Charles Chevallier and his team have done a terrific job this year. ‘One of the reasons why we are holding the tasting at Duhart was to raise its profile,’ he told me. So they are clearly repositioning it for the future but the wine is starting to speak for itself. This 2009 was outstandingly good and I think will really turn some heads this year. It is definitely one to watch. On the nose and palate, it is simply sublime and I rated it 19 out of 20.

So where does that leave Lafite, the headline act? The answer is firmly in the spotlight. Once again, Chevallier has produced a quintessential and classical Lafite that could be another legend in the making. The fruit is ‘à point’, the tannins are so svelte that you can hardly perceive them – except perhaps on the finish, where they make their presence finally felt. And the balance of acidity, fruit and structure is all that you would want – and more.

This wine doesn’t attack your palate, it seduces it with a slow building crescendo that envelops your senses. It’s a bit like Ravel’s Bolero - and almost as long. How do you score such a wine? Easily, you give it a perfect 20 points.

Sadly, the next chateau we are going to has an almost impossible act to follow. And tomorrow morning, I’ll tell you how it (Pontet-Canet) fares as well as Montrose and Leoville-Las-Cases. One of them gets another perfect score so tune in tomorrow to find out which chateau it is. See you then….

Day 2
Rive Gauche….

It’s Tuesday and that means we’re heading off to the Left Bank. This also necessitates an early departure time of 7.30am from where I am staying courtesy of a very dear friend at his Chateau de Sours in the Entre Deux Mers. Believe me, these are the most comfortable beds in Bordeaux! The bad news is the weather. After yesterday’s glorious sunshine, it’s raining stair rods and blowing a gale. Will it affect the way the wines taste with the change in atmospheric pressure? The bio-dynamic prophets might convince me but we’ll have to wait and see.

Either way, it promises to be another busy day. And where better to begin than with the brilliant and genial Paul Pontallier at Chateau Margaux. Today, he tells me, he’s expecting 700 visitors. Yesterday, he had 450.

So there’s no time to waste and we get down to tasting the wines.with Philippe Bascaules his Export Director, who I also know well.

First is the Pavillon Rouge and once again, I am struck by the wonderful approachability of this ever improving second wine. Philippe compares it to the 82 and 90, which were also extremely forward early on – and still aged exceptionally well.

It’s wonderfully elegant and complex. Both Paul and Philippe rate it as possibly their best ever Pavillon and I am inclined to agree and give it 19 points. They even think it’s as good as some Margaux vintages of the 90s, which shows you how far Margaux’s second wine has come.

On the evidence of what I have tasted so far, many of the second wines are proving quite exceptional in 2009. I am convinced they will provide plenty of drinking pleasure – and, critically, great value too. I think a lot of the smart money will snap them up. I’ll certainly be buying them this year.

I’m also struck by the relatively modest alcohol levels and balance of both the Pavillon and the Grand Vin, which are just 13.4% and 13.1% respectively – unusually low for the vintage. ‘We had some very low yields and some really exceptional lots this year, explains Paul. ‘Plus we kept the levels of Merlot down in the final blends. Selection was also key. We have a lot of old vines on great terroirs which is a huge advantage.’

Paul is modestly effusive about his Chateau Margaux 2009 and who can blame him. ‘I think it is the most elegant – but also the most dense, concentrated and tannic ever produced at Margaux.’

And yet, both wines have this wonderful silky softness and freshness, together with fabulous fruit. There is a density but without any heaviness. It remains a quintessential Margaux – elegant, refined and beautifully balanced. I gave it another 19 out of twenty.

Last but not least, we also taste Pavillon Blanc – Margaux’s magnificent 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Only 15,000 bottles have been made – just over 1,000 cases. For me, it didn’t have the opulence of 2006 or 2008, but was more tightly focused and fresher. It was also more minerally too with a bit more sinew and will certainly age and improve. Again, another terrific success.


Cos d’Estournel

From Margaux, we headed north to St Estephe to taste the wines of Cos d’Estournel, run by my ever-enthusiastic long time friend Jean-Guillaume Prats. (I remember doing my first ever tasting in Hong Kong in 1992 at the Seibu store in Pacific Place). I couldn’t help thinking that Margaux would be a tough act to follow, but I also hoped and felt that Cos would be up to the challenge. And so it proved.

We arrived in weather that I wouldn’t wish to fly through, and were welcomed into Cos’ brand new chai, which looks like something out of a James Bond movie. If you get the chance to see it, don’t pass it up. Architecturally, Cos is one of the most exciting and arresting Bordeaux Chateaux with its exotic Indian and Asian design.

As for the wines, St Estephe and Cos in particular produce much more masculine wines than those of Margaux,. Les Pagodes de Cos had terrific richness and power with hints of leather, black fruit and a lick of cream. Again the tannins are out in force, but they’re ripe and completely integrated. I gave it 17 out of 20.

Similarly, the Grand Vin was a notch up in power, depth and concentration. (For instance, the alcohol is 14.5% on the Cos and the tannin index was almost off the scale at 99!) The result is a deeply coloured, massively tannic and broad-shouldered wine but which also manages to carry off great integration and balance and remain true to the Cos terroir. It really broods on the palate with promise of being a real vin de garde. So much so that Jean-Guillaume reckons it could last as long as the 1870!

Nature gave us everything in 2009, said Jean-Guillaume. We have ripe tannin, wonderful fruit and great acidity.’

Well, that’s it for now because my next stop is a spot of tasting at Batailley where the UGC tasting is being held. It’s usually a bit of a bunfight, but they normally do a good lunch. Then in the afternoon, it’s a stellar line-up of Lafite, Duhart, Las-Cases and Mouton. So there’s plenty more to come.

Palmer, Latour and Haut-Brion

Horsing around at Latour…. See below for the inside track on Latour’s new secret weapon.

After a quick, but nonetheless good lunch at Rauzan-Segla, it was a short journey across the road to our next appointment at Palmer, one of Margaux’s undoubted superstar chateaux. It may have been a short trip but, for me, it was a big leap in quality. At the top end, this is turning out to be a fascinating and intriguing vintage.

There’s no question in my tasting notes that Palmer is one of the firm front runners of all the wines I’ve tasted today. For a kick-off Alter Ego, (its second wine) was hugely impressive and already temptingly drinkable . However, centre stage was completely occupied by the Grand Vin.

Frankly, the Palmer 2009 is a stunning wine, which rates a handsome 19/20. The blend is 41% Cabernet and a substantial 52% Merlot and a significant 7% Petit Verdot, which is most unusual. On the palate, it is rich, sweet, dense and seamlessly elegant (as Margaux should be) with intense black and red fruits and remarkably supple tannins. The oak is 50% new, but the fruit is so vibrant that the oak barely registers. The finish is awesomely long.

For me, Palmer’s drinking window could open sooner rather than later. But will it age? Yes, I think it almost certainly will – because of the acidity and tannin that underpin the wine. This could be another 1990 in the making. Except that this is even better.

The other question to answer is whether 2009 is shaping up as a great vintage? The word in the tasting rooms of the Medoc is that it is looking that way. It’s certainly shaping up as something unusual and exceptional. It’s ripe but not like 2003 because it has more freshness. Nor is it like 2005 because of the fleshy ripeness of the tannins. When it comes to vintages, comparisons with previous years only take you so far. In other words it’s something else again.

However, it wasn’t easy either. According to Sabrina Pernet, Palmer’s Technical Director, the most challenging aspect was when to pick. ‘We had to wait a bit for phenolic ripeness for the tannins to soften, which was a little scary because the potential alcohol was getting worryingly high. But it all came right because we waited and it worked perfectly. The tannins are beautifully ripe this year.’

Off to Latour

It was tempting to stay longer at Palmer to talk more about the vintage. But we had a 3.00 appointment at Latour. Naturally, one doesn’t want to be late for Latour so we made a quick getaway, which was just as well as there was a bit of a bottle neck in St Julien. Thankfully, we arrived at Latour right on schedule.

As ever, the vineyards and chai looked immaculate as we were shown into the tasting room. The 09 Pauillac – Engerer’s third wine was good, but no match for its second wine Les Forts de Latour. Already, rumours are circulating that Parker has rated this the best ever Les Forts. I wouldn’t be surprised.

What did surprise me was that Sonia Gerlou of Latour told me that this was one of the most difficult and complicated harvests that Latour has ever completed. It had to be done very quickly using an army of 200 pickers. Time was of the essence. In contrast 2005 was a breeze, she told us.

However, the result for both the deuxieme and the Grand Vin in 2009 are without question seriously prodigious efforts and are right up there in the pantheon of great Latours.

The latter in particular is a Latour de force, which has been treated to 100% new oak. There were concerns about the levels of alcohol, but what saved the day was the high acidity. Certainly, there is a remarkable freshness and ripeness to the wine, which almost seem at odds with each other. But tasting is believing.

Just 38% of Latour has gone into the Grand Vin, so selection has been rigorous again. Indeed, only 8,000 cases have been made, which is very, very low – even for Latour. As for the cepages – it is 91% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Merlot – no Cab Franc or Petit Verdot made the cut.

On the palate? Well the nose seems to have been lifted from Margaux, such are the aromatics. But look out for the cedar and lead pencils, plus the creamy cherry and cassis fruit and sexy sumptuous tannins. The balance is poised and pinpoint, perhaps because Engerer has kept the alcohol firmly in check at a manageable 13.7%. And there’s a sheen and polish to this wine. Frankly, it’s pretty faultless and registers another 19 points out of a maximum 20.

So we left on another high. But as you’ll see from the picture, what also caught my attention at Latour was a magnificent nag called Olympe who was dutifully ploughing the rows between Latour’s hallowed vines just in front of owner Francois Pinault’s pad and the historic tower at Latour.

Why a horse in this age of the latest gizmo technology? According to her boss Bertrand, she is one of three horses now fully employed at Latour. And the reason is simple. They do less damage than tractors to the environment and to the soil. ‘Tractors compact the soil and create more erosion. Olympe does no damage at all,’ Bertrand told me. A case of back to the future at Latour, where clearly not everything is ultra high-tec. Personally, I think it’s fabulous to see such traditional, tried and tested approaches to viticulture and vinificaton making a comeback.

Meanwhile, tomorrow morning, look out for my latest blog on Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion. They’re worth the wait….

Day 1 Monday March 29th Chateau Pichon Baron Our first appointment is at the majestic 2nd growth Pichon Baron in Pauillac owned by AXA Millesimes where Technical Director Jean-Rene Matignon is there to greet us warmly.
First up is the second wine Les Tourelles from 2009, but the main event is of course, Pichon Baron itself. The blend is 67% Cabernet and 33% Merlot and the result is an impressive start to the day. What I am looking for is concentration of fruit from this vintage and accessible tannins which provide structure to the wine, but don’t completely cloak and overwhelm it.

So this ticks all my boxes. The wine has great colour, a core of creamy black fruit and spicy notes which carry through to a long finish. Moreover, the tannins are juicy and velvety rather than astringent and tough. If this is the start of things to come, it bodes well. I’d give it 15/20.

Interestingly, Jean-Rene points out that the tannins are the highest that they have ever been at Pichon Baron. But because they are so ripe, they don’t intrude. The alcohol is also up there at 13.8%, but it doesn’t feel too hot on the finish.

We also have time to taste Chateau Petit Village from Pomerol, which is also part of the AXA stable. This is equally impressive, if not more so. The nose is jammy and full, while the palate is rich and beautifully sweet with integrated oak and ripe, generous tannins. The alcohol is higher at 14.5% - unusually high, but I think this will be a feature of many Right Bank Chateaux this year when the Merlot ripened easily and to high sugars. But the trick will be to keep the wines balanced and not too hot. Petit Village has managed this very well. For me, it’s a good score of 17/20.

And just before we go, we have time to taste the 2009 Suduiraut too from Sauternes. It’s another lovely wine and a pleasure to finish with such a sweet and luscious wine. Again, the balance is the key between the sweetness and acidity. Bravo!

From Pichon Baron in Pauillac, we head south down to Margaux and drop in Rauzan-Segla where the negociant Ulysse Cazabonne have a broader range of wines from right across Bordeaux. First up is Cantenac Brown from Margaux,. It has deep colour and has impressive density but lacks sweetness and definition (12/20). Unfortunately, the Lascombes is also a bit disappointing. To my palate, it has been over-extracted – something that we’ll have to watch out for this year.

The 2009 Marojallia is better. Also deeply coloured and opaque with more sweetness and lovely cassis fruit. There’s also a bit of cedar and great cashmere tannins. My only concern is a slightly hot alcoholic finish. (13/20).

However, John Kolassa has made two terrific wines at Rauzan Segla and Canon. The former is masculine and firm, while the latter is ripe and luscious with violets and density. It’s also 14.5% but wears it well.

Better still though is the Pichon Lalande which is showing better than its neighbour. I give it 16/20. Anthony Barton’s Leoville-Barton is also a success – classical, elegant and minerally. Last but not least, I quickly taste the Smith Haut-Lafitte. This is the best of the lot so far – sweet, full, rich with no hint of bitterness – and great length.

So that’s it for this morning. A good start for sure and there’s plenty more to come. This afternoon, we go to Palmer, Latour and Haut-Brion. I’ll keep you posted!!