An afternoon with Jacques Thienpont, Proprietor, Le Pin.

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It’s a lovely sunny day in downtown Pomerol, I’m standing in the shade of two pine trees, in front of a modest, slightly dilapidated house, which can’t really be described as a chateau, as Jacques Thienpont arrives on his bicyclette to allow me to taste his 2009 Le Pin.

This is my first meeting with JT, a man who not only has been very successful but clearly has a sense of humour. He speaks about his plans to demolish the modest little house beside the two Pine Trees, and build a swimming pool and tennis court. Its only when he mentions that from here he intends to host the Pomerol International Tennis Masters that I realise the truth is intermingled with humour!

We step into the chais of the winery containing 29 barrels of what is no doubt the most valuable 2009 merlot on the planet and he assembles a special Antique Wine Company blend. Sadly only three glasses of this cuvee will ever be available, one for me, one for my colleague Julien, and one for himself, and we are going to drink it now. “I purchased a spitune but after a few days I left it at home because no-one used it” said Jacques! M Thienpont emphasises the contrast between different barrels, remarking upon the almost daily changes at this stage of the wines life, comparing this to that of the female temperament, although he consistently complements his wife Fiona’s winemaking abilities and enthusiasm for the management of Le Pin.

At Le Pin fermentation is carried out in small stainless steel tanks with the malolactic fermatation in barrique. Historically the 225 ltr new barriques have been supplied by Seguin Moreau, but in 2009 for the first time the boss at Taransaud has convinced them to experiment with one of their barells. This tonellerie based in Cognac is very popular in burgundy, but seen less in Bordeaux. JT comments that he expects the effect of their oak to be more but still refined, whereas his Seguin M barrels tend to become almost completely diffused after their first 6 months.

The first vintage of Le Pin was 1979, it was the debut of the “garage wines” followed by Valandraud. Initially the vineyard was only 1 hectare and subsequently expanded to its current 2ha20. I asked Jacques how Le Pin has managed to succeed in being recognised as similar in status to the Medoc 1st growths, he interrupted me to point out “ it’s not gone to my head – it’s the result of constant uninterrupted quality that has been recognised by the market”. JT insists he doesn’t interfere with the market, but keeps wine making simple, no cooling or heating system in the winery and just lets the wine do its own thing.

In 2009 the harvest took place on two days, 22nd and 25th September (after the rain). The wine has a surprisingly low level of alcohol at 13.5%, especially in comparison with other Merlot wines in this vintage. According to Thienpont this is entirely the result of terroir and the earths gravel content, on the gentle slope that provides drainage.

The 2009 shows a dense purple colour, solid to the rim, tannins are so approachable, plenty of tannin but no aggression or masculinity. “Women love this wine, but personally I prefer wine that I have to flight with a little” remarks Thienpont. In the mouth the wine envelopes the palate with super-concentrated sweet black fruit, exotic, and leaving this rich coating around the mouth which seems to go on for ever.

Thienpont is also currently experimenting with three barrels of wine he has made on some nearby land. A few ares he purchased nearby but this won’t be included in Le Pin. He only sells this wine to some of his chums in Belgium as generic Pomerol.

I asked Thienpont how he felt about the fact that his wine sold for such astronomical amounts of money, in particular his 1982 vintage which the Antique Wine Company last sold a case of for £50,000. He compares his wine to artistic masterpieces, and although he finds it difficult to identify his favourite of the 29 vintages produced so far, (“if you have twelve children, then how can you say one is your favourite”? he remarks), and he goes on to say that his first three vintages, he regrettably sold in their youth to repay the money his bank loaned to him to buy the vineyard. “I wish I had kept the wine and the debt, and sold just a few cases to repay them years later”. It is certainly interesting how the appreciating value of this precious liquid has outpaced the cost of borrowed money so dramatically.

Talking further about how many of the older vintages might still be on the market, Jacques remarked that he only has one bottle of the 1982 in his cellar, I am still unsure if he was joking or serious! He does admit to having more bottles of his first 1979 vintage, although he suggests it was his “draft attempt” and might not be the best example of Le Pin to buy.

Le Pin received more visitors to taste its wine en-primeur this year than usual, especially from Asia and some from China. According to Jacques, the Chinese are becoming accustomed to giving Le Pin as gifts, especially at the highest political levels. The Chinese gift Lafite to one another regularly, but if it’s for an important politician or official, then apparently the equally pronounceable Le Pin is the wine to give.

We stepped outside onto the ploughed piece of land designated for ”proposed swimming pool and tennis court that is so close to Jacques heart ”. Jacques confirmed to me that he has purchased land in St Emilion, a rumour that I had heard recently. He said that he chose the site adjacent to Troplong Mondot, for two reasons; the first being because he thinks Cabernet Franc will be an increasingly important ingredient in overcoming the consequences of global warming, and secondly because he will be in good company! No doubt Christine Valette, proprietor of Troplong, will feel the same!

After a most interesting, informative and entertaining hour, Jacques set of on his journey home, in the same modest way in which he arrived, on his bicyclette!

 

For Decanter's follow-up on this story and the latest wine news, updated daily, go to decanter.com http://www.decanter.com/news/297422.html 

© Copyright 2010 Stephen Williams

 

En Primeur Round-up

Last night I was privileged to attend the most wonderful party held in the Gallery of Bordeaux’s Grand Opera, hosted by Pierre Lurton, the boss of Chateau d’Yquem. The only wine being poured was Chateau d’Yquem (and the dry Ygrec), and every detail was organised to perfection, from the elegant hostesses in their black silk haut couture business suits highlighted with a discreet sash of golden yquem coloured Thai silk, the colour coordination went on to include the golden tulips and stunning spring flowers, the gold leaf columns of this magnificent room matching the brilliant hue of the 1989 Yquem to perfection.

So it is with the sweet aftertaste of this wine that I conclude the week’s blog with a round-up of impressions, thoughts and conclusions on the vintage, the market and the wines.

En Primeur presence

As ever, it is absolutely vital for me and my buyers to have come to Bordeaux this week. Firstly, we need to get a first-hand feel and in-depth understanding of the quality of the vintage and which chateaux’s wines have performed well this year.

That’s because there’s no substitute for tasting in situ. I and my team need to know which are the winners and losers in 2009 so that when we are talking to our clients around the world we can give them our honest assessments about the style of any particular chateau as well as how it will age and develop. And of course, we can advise whether it is a good buy when the prices are released over the next few weeks.

State of the market

Another reason to be here is to gauge the state of the market. Only by talking to the top players like Pierre Lurton at Cheval Blanc, Paul Pontallier at Margaux and Herve Berland at Mouton can you get an inside track on their perceptions of how the campaign will unfold – how much wine will be released in each individual tranche and at what price. Naturally, they aren’t giving too much away and are keeping their cards close to their chests, but I was able to get an insight into the way they are thinking thanks to some useful private conversations.

Of course, their pricing will also depend on what the market is telling them. And this year, it has been fascinating to see who has come to Bordeaux. Whilst there has been an Asian presence at many of the tastings I have been to, it certainly didn’t strike me that mainland Chinese buyers are out here in force. Nor have I heard too many American accents over the last three or four days. Will China and the States be up for the 2009s. I doubt whether the Chinese are yet ready to grasp the principle of buying something that you can’t have until two years after you’ve paid for it. And, I am sure that that and the fragile economic conditions will certainly influence the way the chateaux will price their wines. My view is that prices will be high, but will come out at less than 2005 release prices, but the amount of wine sold by the chateaux en-primeur will be a smaller proportion of their production.

And, it is always incredibly useful to talk to old friends, colleagues and competitors about their perceptions on the vintage and the market. The fine wine world largely revolves around Bordeaux and this is a multi-million pound industry with a lot to play for. All the major players come to Bordeaux for this annual event. So if you are serious about fine wine, you have to be here.

However, whilst it is a serious and intensive three days – it’s also terrific fun. There’s always a buzz about the en primeur tastings which I thrive on and compensate for the paucity of sleep.

And it’s also a chance to catch up with old friends and drink some great wine. For instance, last night following the “Yquem aperitif party” 30 of us dined together at Chateau de Sours with host Martin Krajewski pulling out yet more stunning wines from his cellar including double magnums of 66 Mouton and 82 La Conseillante plus vintages of 86 Latour, 76 Mouton and the grand finale, 1990 Leoville Las Cases. It was quite a night!

Thoughts on the 2009 vintage

Two things stick in my mind from my visits to Bordeaux in 2009. One was the hail in May in St Emilion which wreaked such massive havoc in the space of a few short minutes. For instance at Chateau Balestard La Tonnelle, the crop was decimated in the blink of an eye thanks to corridor of hail the size of golf balls. I could only feel the utmost sympathy for the owner, Mr Cap de Meurlin.

Some vines were able to re-bud. But the hail has undoubtedly reduced the volume of the Merlot crop. But perhaps most importantly, it has made it much more difficult for right bank winemakers to make a good selection in 2009.

Unfortunately, the Merlots have had a tough time this year regarding the ripening process. The problem as I mentioned my earlier blogs was that the grapes ripened early in terms of sugar levels, but that winemakers then had to wait for phenolic ripeness - which took another two to three weeks as sugar levels continue to climb. They had the almost impossible choice of picking late and making wines with unusually high alcohol or picking early and making wines with green and harsh tannins. So, many have been caught between a rock and a hard place, I am afraid that a number of Merlot based wines on the Right Bank are not entirely successful.

In contrast, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc have done particularly well this year. Rain at the right time also assisted the Cabernets leading me to think that many of the top wines are to be found on the left bank. Tellingly, many of the best wines in Margaux, Pauillac and St Julien have increased the quantity of Cabernet and cut the percentage of merlot in their 2009 blends.

As a result, I have been surprised by the 2009s. I came here having heard all the advance hype about the 2009s both from the press and winemakers who told me how good it was. Consequently, I came expecting a relatively homogenous profile of quality. Whilst there are a high proportion of magnificent wines, I don’t see the quality as being homogenous. Some of the wines simply have too much alcohol or the right level of alcohol with green unripe tannins.

It’s difficult to know how a winemaker resolves this problem, which may be a symptom of global warming. Having asked numerous winemakers about how they controlled the ripeness and alcohol, in almost every case they told me there is nothing they can do – except by selection from micro-terroir.

In other words, it is all down to terroir and climatic conditions. This was a dry vintage throughout the year with warm (but not hot) days and cold nights. Moreover, the extended growth cycle of 2009 meant that end of the harvest wasn’t completed until the end of October. Consequently, particular micro climates of individual terroirs were absolutely key. For instance, at Las-Cases and Latour, the vineyards back onto the Gironde river and therefore benefit from higher night time temperatures. This meant that they were able to harvest sooner rather than later and bring in ripe grapes with good acidity levels and perfect phenolics. And you can clearly taste it in the wines.

In conclusion then, which are my favourite wines? The Firsts and Super Seconds, in particular, have produced exceptional wines in 2009 and I think some are as good as the legends of the past including 1982, 1990, 2000 and 2005. But there are also some great value wines which are well worth seeking out.

Here is a list of my top in terms of sheer quality and my top ‘value’ wines, both of which will provide enormous pleasure over the coming years.

Top quality 2009s
La Mission Haut Brion, Lafite, Latour, Margaux, Mouton, Las-Cases, Cheval Blanc, Palmer.

Top value 2009s
Clos de Marquis, Pavillon Rouge de Chateau Margaux, Potensac, Forts de Latour, Petit Village, Pichon Lalande, and a petit chateau in St Emilion Clos de la Madelaine.

La vie en rose or Pavie en rose….

As I intimated in my previous blog, Pavie is probably the most controversial wine in the whole of Bordeaux right now. It’s the ‘marmite’ label, which people love or hate. As some of you will remember, back in 2003, Jancis Robinson loathed it and Parker loved it.

Why such a furore? Well, the simple answer is whether Pavie and the rest of Perse’s Right Bank wines accurately represent their terroir or are simply too ‘modern’ and extracted for their own good. So it was fascinating to see how winemaker Henrique da Costa had coped with the vintage. Would the merlots be over-ripe and over-alcoholic with a wall of tannin?

Clos les Lunelles had a lovely lifted aroma and bouquet with strawberries and raspberries. On the palate though, more black fruit emerged – as did a some hefty tannins. I gave it 15.

Monbousquet came equipped with good fruit and notes of coffee and liquorice. But what I didn’t like were the brutal tannins. To me, they were over-extracted, tough and austere – even a little vegetal. Again, another 15 points.

Much better was Pavie Decessse. Perhaps it was the older vines and the fact that it is situated on the limestone plateau. Certainly, this was much more successful. The fruit was full, sweet and attractively forward – full of damsons and mulberries with a touch of mocha too. Moreover, it was fresher and softer – voluptuous rather than tough and tannic. The alcohol is big at 14.5% but it is not so noticeable and is hidden by the fruit and ripe tannins. I gave it 18. Only, 500 cases were made, I wonder if, after the huge crowd of tasters in Bordeaux this week, there will be any to sell? I think this will go like hot cakes this year.

And what about Pavie? My feeling is that the 2009 will once again radically divide opinion. As for my own opinion, it is certainly impressive in its way. The colour is completely opaque and the nose is equally intense. There’s also no lack of black fruit and cigar box. But I’m afraid that when you put the wine in your mouth you meet a wall of tannins. In fact, make that a mountain of tannin. Will it come round? I am sure it will, but not for another 15 years at least.

For instance, winemaker Henrique da Costa told me that he is just broaching the 2000 now – but it needs decanting for a couple of hours at least.

Finally, we also tasted the Monbousquet Blanc 2009 which is a blend of two thirds sauvignon blanc and on third sauvignon gris – a variety which very few people are familiar with, even in Bordeaux Henrique told me.

Personally, I was very excited by this wine which really impressed me. On the nose, it was full of citrus and lemon notes. And on the palate, it was rich and fat, but with streak of clean refreshing acidity running through it. The fruit was melon, pineapple and some savoury oatmeal, which rounded it off nicely. Very long too. I gave it 17 points.

If you haven’t tried this wine, it’s certainly unusual and distinctive as well as rare. In St Emilion, the only other white wine producer of note is Bernard Magrez at Fombrauge, where the wine also has to be labelled as Bordeaux Bordeaux Blanc because the appellation laws do not permit white St Emilion.

But we may see more white St Emilion Gerard Perse is even thinking of planting some white grapes in the hallowed soils of Pavie. ‘It makes sense,’ says Henrique. ‘You can create great white wines on limestone soil – after all, look at burgundy!’

Well, that’s it for now. My teeth are once again completely stained and my dentist would probably have a fit. But the show must go on.

Day 2 - Pontet Canet, Montrose and Leoville-las-Cases

Perhaps, not surprisingly, Pontet Canet can’t reach the heights of the Lafite we tasted just before lunch yesterday. Nonetheless, there’s no question that this is a rising star in Bordeaux. Moreover, Alfred Tesseron and his team have produced another good wine in 2009 but which perhaps lacked a bit of depth and was just a touch austere on the finish. 15 points.

Of course, Pontet-Canet is the only classed growth to have been certified as biodynamic and whilst there isn’t time to go into that here, I will delve into it for sure on a podcast at some future point.

And like Latour, they are using horsepower to work the soil rather than tractors, said their chef de cave Jeanne-Michel Comme who I talked to at length about the benefits of this natural approach to vine growing.

‘We have three horses. But I think we will have more. They are only a brick in the wall we want to build. Because to improve the wines, we have to take care of the soil. When we started to farm biodynamically, we noticed that the soils were in bad shape because of damaging pesticides and heavy tractors which compacted it and prevented oxygen from getting to the natural microbes in the soil. So we have to get the soil in the right condition for the microbes to return. Then the soil will be in better health which we hope and expect that will improve condition of the and ultimately the fruit and the wine. But this will take years. It is a long process.’

Our next stop was Montrose in St Estephe. It too has ambitions under its relatively new owner Martin Bougyes and Technical Director Nicholas Glumineau – not least because of the number of building projects on the go at this second growth, including plans to generate all their own electricity using solar panels.

However, they’re not just expanding their capacity in the cellar,they have recently bought 22ha of vineyards from Phelan-Segur. According to Glumineau what is so exciting about this is that is a very good terroir. ‘It is the same kind of soil at the top of the hill abutting the estate and used to be owned by Montrose a long time ago. So we are very happy to get it. The vines are not too old or too young vines and I think it was the best part of Phelan Segur.’

Glumineau showed us four wines including the first and second wines of Tronquoy Lalande. Both had a lot more Merlot because of the terroir – it has more clay and less gravel. But I preferred the Montrose wines – particularly the Grand Vin.

72% of production has gone into the wine with Cabernet at 65% and 29% being Merlot. To me this is very pure, polished and fairly monumental but it’s also surprisingly approachable now. I am sure it will be a vin de garde because of its sheer concentration and fresh acidity. The tannins are also powerful but ripe and the fruit is terrific. So the balance is good and there’s no hint of heaviness. 18 points.

Last but by no means least is Las-Cases in St Julien, which remains one of the leading performers of all the classified growths. More often than not, it’s First Growth quality and the rumours that are ricocheting around Bordeaux are that M Delon has produced something special in 2009.

Apparently, 300 visitors showed up on Monday and Tuesday was just as busy, according to chef de Cave Bruno Rolland whose family have been at Las-Cases for the last three generations.

The Nenin was good from Pomerol but I preferred the Potensac from the left bank, which I thought was really impressive this year and will be a great value wine for drinkers. Also impressive was the debut vintage of Le Petit Lion, Las-Cases’ brand new second wine. It had excellent jammy fruit with a hint of tobacco. Also on top form was Clos du Marquis which was very well made and I gave it 18. To me it was a velvet glove in an iron fist.

But the Las-cases simply blows you away. It is the complete package – sweet, cedary, very ripe, creamy tannins. And there’s an awesome black fruit sweetness with a savoury character. The colour is opaque and there’s a fat texture full of glycerine without being over extracted. And it has wonderful length and balance. To me this is vinous perfection again and I have no hesitation in giving it a perfect 20.

On a final note, what I also like about the Las-Cases is the alcohol level at just 13.4%. My view so far is that the very best wines of 2009 are at or around this level and the common thread which links them is Cabernet Sauvignon. Similarly, the least successful wines that I have tasted with higher alcohol of over 14% are from the Right bank with higher percentages of Merlot.

So the conclusion I am reaching is that this is shaping up to be more of a left bank vintage – and here’s why. Essentially, the left bank chateaux could pick the ripe cabernet at the right time when it was ripe and not too alcoholic. But on the Right bank, many chateaux have had to wait for their Merlot grapes to achieve full phenolic ripeness. And, of course, that has meant a big build up of sugar and has resulted in some wines being overextracted or just too alcoholic for their own good.

However, today I’ll get a much clearer picture of the Right bank as my itinerary today includes the likes of Cheval Blanc and Petrus. So tune in later for the latest news on this exciting vintage.

Palmer, Latour and Haut-Brion

Horsing around at Latour…. See below for the inside track on Latour’s new secret weapon.

After a quick, but nonetheless good lunch at Rauzan-Segla, it was a short journey across the road to our next appointment at Palmer, one of Margaux’s undoubted superstar chateaux. It may have been a short trip but, for me, it was a big leap in quality. At the top end, this is turning out to be a fascinating and intriguing vintage.

There’s no question in my tasting notes that Palmer is one of the firm front runners of all the wines I’ve tasted today. For a kick-off Alter Ego, (its second wine) was hugely impressive and already temptingly drinkable . However, centre stage was completely occupied by the Grand Vin.

Frankly, the Palmer 2009 is a stunning wine, which rates a handsome 19/20. The blend is 41% Cabernet and a substantial 52% Merlot and a significant 7% Petit Verdot, which is most unusual. On the palate, it is rich, sweet, dense and seamlessly elegant (as Margaux should be) with intense black and red fruits and remarkably supple tannins. The oak is 50% new, but the fruit is so vibrant that the oak barely registers. The finish is awesomely long.

For me, Palmer’s drinking window could open sooner rather than later. But will it age? Yes, I think it almost certainly will – because of the acidity and tannin that underpin the wine. This could be another 1990 in the making. Except that this is even better.

The other question to answer is whether 2009 is shaping up as a great vintage? The word in the tasting rooms of the Medoc is that it is looking that way. It’s certainly shaping up as something unusual and exceptional. It’s ripe but not like 2003 because it has more freshness. Nor is it like 2005 because of the fleshy ripeness of the tannins. When it comes to vintages, comparisons with previous years only take you so far. In other words it’s something else again.

However, it wasn’t easy either. According to Sabrina Pernet, Palmer’s Technical Director, the most challenging aspect was when to pick. ‘We had to wait a bit for phenolic ripeness for the tannins to soften, which was a little scary because the potential alcohol was getting worryingly high. But it all came right because we waited and it worked perfectly. The tannins are beautifully ripe this year.’

Off to Latour

It was tempting to stay longer at Palmer to talk more about the vintage. But we had a 3.00 appointment at Latour. Naturally, one doesn’t want to be late for Latour so we made a quick getaway, which was just as well as there was a bit of a bottle neck in St Julien. Thankfully, we arrived at Latour right on schedule.

As ever, the vineyards and chai looked immaculate as we were shown into the tasting room. The 09 Pauillac – Engerer’s third wine was good, but no match for its second wine Les Forts de Latour. Already, rumours are circulating that Parker has rated this the best ever Les Forts. I wouldn’t be surprised.

What did surprise me was that Sonia Gerlou of Latour told me that this was one of the most difficult and complicated harvests that Latour has ever completed. It had to be done very quickly using an army of 200 pickers. Time was of the essence. In contrast 2005 was a breeze, she told us.

However, the result for both the deuxieme and the Grand Vin in 2009 are without question seriously prodigious efforts and are right up there in the pantheon of great Latours.

The latter in particular is a Latour de force, which has been treated to 100% new oak. There were concerns about the levels of alcohol, but what saved the day was the high acidity. Certainly, there is a remarkable freshness and ripeness to the wine, which almost seem at odds with each other. But tasting is believing.

Just 38% of Latour has gone into the Grand Vin, so selection has been rigorous again. Indeed, only 8,000 cases have been made, which is very, very low – even for Latour. As for the cepages – it is 91% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Merlot – no Cab Franc or Petit Verdot made the cut.

On the palate? Well the nose seems to have been lifted from Margaux, such are the aromatics. But look out for the cedar and lead pencils, plus the creamy cherry and cassis fruit and sexy sumptuous tannins. The balance is poised and pinpoint, perhaps because Engerer has kept the alcohol firmly in check at a manageable 13.7%. And there’s a sheen and polish to this wine. Frankly, it’s pretty faultless and registers another 19 points out of a maximum 20.

So we left on another high. But as you’ll see from the picture, what also caught my attention at Latour was a magnificent nag called Olympe who was dutifully ploughing the rows between Latour’s hallowed vines just in front of owner Francois Pinault’s pad and the historic tower at Latour.

Why a horse in this age of the latest gizmo technology? According to her boss Bertrand, she is one of three horses now fully employed at Latour. And the reason is simple. They do less damage than tractors to the environment and to the soil. ‘Tractors compact the soil and create more erosion. Olympe does no damage at all,’ Bertrand told me. A case of back to the future at Latour, where clearly not everything is ultra high-tec. Personally, I think it’s fabulous to see such traditional, tried and tested approaches to viticulture and vinificaton making a comeback.

Meanwhile, tomorrow morning, look out for my latest blog on Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion. They’re worth the wait….

Day 1 Monday March 29th Chateau Pichon Baron Our first appointment is at the majestic 2nd growth Pichon Baron in Pauillac owned by AXA Millesimes where Technical Director Jean-Rene Matignon is there to greet us warmly.
First up is the second wine Les Tourelles from 2009, but the main event is of course, Pichon Baron itself. The blend is 67% Cabernet and 33% Merlot and the result is an impressive start to the day. What I am looking for is concentration of fruit from this vintage and accessible tannins which provide structure to the wine, but don’t completely cloak and overwhelm it.

So this ticks all my boxes. The wine has great colour, a core of creamy black fruit and spicy notes which carry through to a long finish. Moreover, the tannins are juicy and velvety rather than astringent and tough. If this is the start of things to come, it bodes well. I’d give it 15/20.

Interestingly, Jean-Rene points out that the tannins are the highest that they have ever been at Pichon Baron. But because they are so ripe, they don’t intrude. The alcohol is also up there at 13.8%, but it doesn’t feel too hot on the finish.

We also have time to taste Chateau Petit Village from Pomerol, which is also part of the AXA stable. This is equally impressive, if not more so. The nose is jammy and full, while the palate is rich and beautifully sweet with integrated oak and ripe, generous tannins. The alcohol is higher at 14.5% - unusually high, but I think this will be a feature of many Right Bank Chateaux this year when the Merlot ripened easily and to high sugars. But the trick will be to keep the wines balanced and not too hot. Petit Village has managed this very well. For me, it’s a good score of 17/20.

And just before we go, we have time to taste the 2009 Suduiraut too from Sauternes. It’s another lovely wine and a pleasure to finish with such a sweet and luscious wine. Again, the balance is the key between the sweetness and acidity. Bravo!

From Pichon Baron in Pauillac, we head south down to Margaux and drop in Rauzan-Segla where the negociant Ulysse Cazabonne have a broader range of wines from right across Bordeaux. First up is Cantenac Brown from Margaux,. It has deep colour and has impressive density but lacks sweetness and definition (12/20). Unfortunately, the Lascombes is also a bit disappointing. To my palate, it has been over-extracted – something that we’ll have to watch out for this year.

The 2009 Marojallia is better. Also deeply coloured and opaque with more sweetness and lovely cassis fruit. There’s also a bit of cedar and great cashmere tannins. My only concern is a slightly hot alcoholic finish. (13/20).

However, John Kolassa has made two terrific wines at Rauzan Segla and Canon. The former is masculine and firm, while the latter is ripe and luscious with violets and density. It’s also 14.5% but wears it well.

Better still though is the Pichon Lalande which is showing better than its neighbour. I give it 16/20. Anthony Barton’s Leoville-Barton is also a success – classical, elegant and minerally. Last but not least, I quickly taste the Smith Haut-Lafitte. This is the best of the lot so far – sweet, full, rich with no hint of bitterness – and great length.

So that’s it for this morning. A good start for sure and there’s plenty more to come. This afternoon, we go to Palmer, Latour and Haut-Brion. I’ll keep you posted!!